Straight answers
Questions Metro Detroit homeowners actually ask
These are the questions we actually get, in person, before someone hires a contractor, plus a few more you should be asking even if you end up hiring somebody else. Verifying a license, understanding a payment schedule, and knowing what a normal change order looks like are things every homeowner in Macomb, Oakland, and Northern Wayne county should know before signing anything. If you still have a question after this, call (248) 988-0099.
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Everything people ask
How do I verify a contractor's license in Michigan?
Go to the State of Michigan's LARA (Licensing and Regulatory Affairs) website and use the license verification search. Enter the contractor's name or license number and confirm it's an active Residential Builder license, not lapsed or a different license type entirely. Mike's license number is #242500021. Any real contractor should give you their license number without hesitation. If someone won't, that's your answer.
Do I need a permit for my project in Macomb or Oakland County?
Almost certainly, for anything beyond cosmetic work. Kitchen and bathroom remodels that touch plumbing or electrical, additions, basement finishing (especially with egress windows or a bathroom), and any structural change all require permits from your local building department. A city like Sterling Heights, Troy, or Rochester Hills has its own permit office and process, separate from the county. A licensed contractor should know exactly which permits your project needs before work starts, not figure it out partway through.
Who is responsible for pulling permits, me or the contractor?
In most cases, your general contractor pulls permits under their license, since the permit is tied to the licensed work being performed. Be wary of any contractor who asks you to pull the permit yourself as a homeowner, then does the work under your permit. That arrangement is sometimes used to work around licensing requirements, and it shifts liability onto you if something goes wrong.
What's a normal deposit, and what's a red flag?
A reasonable deposit for a defined project is typically in the range of 10 to 30 percent of the total contract, tied to materials being ordered or work about to start, not just to signing the contract. Michigan law actually caps deposits at a percentage of the contract for residential improvements in many cases. A red flag is a contractor asking for half or more up front, asking for cash only, or asking for the full amount before any work begins. Walk away from any of those.
What should a payment schedule look like?
Payments should be tied to completed milestones, not to the calendar. A typical schedule might look like: deposit at signing, a payment when materials are ordered or delivered, one or two progress payments tied to completed phases (rough-in complete, drywall complete), and a final payment held until the punch list is done and you've signed off. Never pay the final installment before the work is actually finished and you've walked through it.
How long should my project actually take?
A bathroom remodel typically runs 3 to 5 weeks once work starts. A full kitchen remodel usually runs 6 to 10 weeks. A basement finish runs 6 to 12 weeks depending on scope and whether a bathroom is included. An addition can run 3 to 6 months or more, depending on size and whether it involves a second story. These are timelines once permits are in hand and work has actually begun, not from the day you sign a contract. Permit review time in Macomb and Oakland County adds weeks on top of that, and it's outside your contractor's control.
What happens if the contractor finds a problem mid-project?
It should stop, get documented with photos, and get priced before work continues on that portion of the job. Old wiring behind a wall, water damage under a tub, foundation issues in a basement, these things get found once demo starts, even after a careful walkthrough. What separates a legitimate finding from a manufactured one is whether it's something you can independently verify (a photo of visibly rotted framing is hard to fake) and whether the contractor explains the cost before doing the work, not after.
What is a change order, and how should it work?
A change order is a written amendment to your contract covering added scope or cost beyond what was originally agreed, whether that's a discovered problem, a material upgrade you requested, or a design change mid-project. It should always be in writing, with a specific price, before the additional work happens. Verbal change orders, or work that just shows up on your final invoice without prior written agreement, are not how this should go.
Do I need to move out during a remodel?
For a single bathroom or kitchen remodel, most homeowners stay in the house, though you'll lose use of that room for the duration and should plan a temporary kitchen setup if it's a kitchen project. For a whole-home renovation or an addition that involves major structural work, staying is a personal tolerance question more than a requirement, dust, noise, and limited access add up over weeks. Ask your contractor directly what to expect for your specific scope before deciding.
Does my contractor need insurance, and what does it cover me for?
Yes. A legitimate contractor carries general liability insurance, which covers property damage or injury that occurs as a result of their work on your home, and if they have employees, workers' compensation insurance, which covers injuries to their crew on your property. Ask for a certificate of insurance directly from the contractor, not just a verbal assurance. Without it, you could be personally liable if someone gets hurt working on your house.
What is a lien waiver, and why do I need one?
A lien waiver is a signed document from your contractor and any subcontractors or suppliers confirming they've been paid for their work and won't file a construction lien against your property for it. Without one, a subcontractor who wasn't paid by your general contractor could place a lien on your home even though you paid the general contractor in full. Get a lien waiver at each payment milestone, not just at the end, and definitely before your final payment.
How can I tell if a bid is too good to be true?
Compare scope, not just price, against your other bids. A number well below the others usually means something's missing: a cheaper unspecified material, no line item for permits, an assumption that nothing unexpected turns up once walls are open, or simply a lowball number meant to win the job and get made up later through change orders. Ask exactly what's included, what brand or grade of materials are specified, and what happens if something unexpected is found. Vague answers to specific questions are the tell.
How do I spot a storm-chaser or a contractor who's not legit?
Storm-chasers typically show up right after a hailstorm or major weather event, going door to door with pressure to sign today, an out-of-state or unfamiliar business name, no local address or verifiable license, and a demand for a large upfront payment. A real, established contractor doesn't need you to sign on the spot. Verify their Michigan license through LARA, ask for local references you can actually call, and be skeptical of anyone pushing urgency instead of answering questions.
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